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In a time of economic crisis and financial difficulties, the Haute Couture collections for A/W ‘09/10 were a powerful reminder of each designer’s true mastery in the art of couture.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier's theme for his Fall Collection 2009 show was clear from the very beginning: a fun, futuristic take on Hollywood heroines (think Brigette Bardot and Mae West).  The fierce, overly structured, geometric-deco silhouettes blended beautifully with lavish furs - a look that was especially refreshing to see this season.  Gaultier created a timeless yet modern collection with pieces which we've come to expect from the Gaultier canon: the androgynous pantsuits, the trenches, padded waists and the corsets.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Valentino

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, newly appointed Valentino designers produced a significantly impressive collection than their first outing last season. Breaking away from Valentino signature looks, the former accessory designers brought to the stage an energizing, youthful appearance for the House - a lively collection full of ruffles, lace, and short, leggy dresses.  The theme was said to be inspired by the death of Edward VII in 1910, but any non-history buff would recognize the looks as something Marie Antoinette would wear to a funeral (and that’s not a bad thing)!  Even in a haze of almost entirely black, the collection was a stimulating and promising sign of strong direction for the new couture designers.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci executed in my opinion, a flawless collection which brings a revitalizing sense of modernity to couture. Tisci combined the signature Givenchy harsh structures and their fearless dramatic shoulders with an exotic Arabian influence. In an almost “warrior woman” appearance the brilliant juxtaposition of man/women style and sensual harem seductress brought a gothic edge and glamour to this couture collection.  The draped silhouettes and gold ornamentation for face, jewelry, and embroidery, added an authentic Middle Eastern flair.  Vaguely reminiscent of Christopher Decorin at Balmain and Olivier Theysken at Nina Ricci, the full length fitted dress was the cherry on top of a beautiful and timeless couture collection.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Christian Lacroix

After voluntarily filing for bankruptcy this year, Lacroix House had very limited funds and workforce to produce this collection.  Seamstresses, embroiderers, jewelers, milliners, and shoemakers worked diligently and free of charge, out of pure loyalty to Lacriox.  The result?  A wonderfully cohesive, inspired and contemporary collection.  Clearly not having access to the luxurious hues and embroidered materials as in the past, Lacroix stuck to simplicity concentrating on shape and wearability.  Is this the legendary House’s last high fashion show?

For couture’s sake, I certainly hope not!

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

CHANEL

The colors. The embroidery. The proportions.
Designer Karl Lagerfeld does it again. It’s back to the basics for the A/W collection, further evidenced by the stage set and décor (Chanel N°5 bottles and seating modeled after Coco Chanel’s apartment furniture).  Reminiscent of the 1920s flapper-era, sequins and tiered hemlines were a common theme in this year’s collection. It was great to see Lagerfeld, recognized as an expert with the monochromatic palette, use vibrant colors and vivid embroidery in these goddess-worthy pieces.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Christian Dior

The Fall/Winter 2009 Christian Dior by John Galliano couture show was the first major couture show of the season. Similar to past collections, Galliano adds a twist to Dior's iconic New Look, turning pant-less designs into complete looks with garters and lace. Even though many of the looks seemed repetitive of past Dior couture, ready-to-wear, and resort shows, Galliano’s unique flair of theatricality was nothing short of spectacular. Punches of vivid colors were brilliantly contrasted with flesh toned undergarments straight out of the 1950s.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Giorgio Armani Privé

The signature pantsuit was impeccably executed in the Armani Prive haute couture collection - as to be expected from Giorgio Armani - creating a perfectly balanced union of sharp angled shoulders and slouchy pants.  The collection mainly stuck to Armani’s trademark couture looks: skirtsuits; jet-beaded cocktail pieces; and long, slim evening dresses with exquisite plunging necklines.  The silver and nude mesh jumpsuits embellished with crystals were a dazzling and unpredictable finale look, further emphasizing Giorgio Armani’s coherent, faultlessly tailored and original collection.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Elie Saab

Lebanese designer Elie Saab has some serious guts. Well, either that or maybe he was completely unaware that his all-white couture A/W collection would be taking place in the same venue as Karl Lagerfeld's similarly colorless couture show last January. Lack of color wasn’t the only parallel though; short, impeccably detailed, fluffy dresses were an ever present theme in this production. The younger style of dresses, an unusual look for Saab, featured impressive geometric surface accents made of raw-edged disks of tulle, ostrich feathers, and delicate crystals.  After an extensive series of short dresses, Saab then reverted to his more signature long gowns and even a few jewel-embellished jumpsuits, a recurring theme throughout A/W couture collections. Clearly Lagerfeld’s praised collection last season influenced Saab this time around, especially after the two piece look with a petal-ornamented headpiece made an appearance on the stage – but one has to ask whether this is flattery or flat out ignorance? 

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com

Alex Mabille

Alexis Mabille, a relatively new couturier, executed a flirtatious and imaginative fall collection with a splash of French romance and subtle attitude. The young designer proved to the fashion world that he’s no one hit wonder, and presented a collection vaguely reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent.  Girly hemlines and hip-hugging dresses created sexy silhouettes complete with Mabille’s signature bow ties.  Using precious materials like the weightless organdy, guipure, and intricate broderie anglaise, Mabille wanted to design looks which are comfortable and chic.  The standouts were the draped gowns and elegant togas – a modish look that doesn’t compromise with wearability.

photo © Yiannis Vlamos /// pixelformula.com