Abstract architectural view of curved walls and angles leading to a staircase, highlighted by soft, natural light.

A Photographic Exhibition in Cologne Celebrates Ettore Sottsass' Architectural Legacy

Words by Eric David

Cologne, Germany

Best known for the iconoclastic, zany furniture and objects of the Memphis Group, the postmodernist design collective he founded in 1980, Italian designer Ettore Sottsass is often less recognized for his architectural endeavours. A new photographic exhibition curated by Federica Sala at the Istituto Italiano di Cultura in Cologne, “New Archeology? Ettore Sottsass Reloaded”, seeks to rectify this by honing in on one of his most groundbreaking projects—namely, the Esprit store at Am Hof 2. Built in the early 20th century, the historic edifice was radically transformed in 1986 by Sottsass and his firm, Sottsass Associati, and has now been meticulously restored by architect Anna Nicolas for the esteemed jeweller Wempe. Running until May 9, 2025, the exhibition celebrates this remarkable convergence of past and present, through the evocative photography of Jessica Soffiati who has captured the restored interiors with a lens that balances documentary precision and artistic sensibility.

Close-up of a modern furniture piece showing a white side, a wooden base with wheels, and a vibrant red wooden panel in the background.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A modern corridor featuring sleek design elements, a patterned grey carpet, and wooden accents with minimalist glass partitions.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Curved wooden seating merges with a patterned gray rug featuring abstract shapes, creating a modern, inviting space.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Four art pieces displayed on a white wall, featuring abstract designs and diverse textures, including organic shapes and patterns.

Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

An abstract, inverted image showing the corner of a black cabinet with clear, round feet on a patterned carpet.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

During the 1980s, Sottsass challenged conventional aesthetics, introducing vibrant colours, unconventional forms, and a playful amalgamation of materials. In 1986, the American clothing brand Esprit sought to encapsulate this avant-garde spirit in their retail spaces and commissioned Sottsass Associati, the architectural practice Sottsass had founded a year before, to design their flagship store located within Stollwerck Haus, a landmark building in Cologne. The collaboration resulted in an immersive retail environment, and a manifestation of Sottsass's radical design philosophy, which blurred the lines between art and commerce.

Abstract dark blue and gray texture resembling flowing wood grain, featuring smooth, wavy patterns in varying shades.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A modern interior featuring a curved ceiling, speckled floor, and a bright red rectangular frame on a textured wall.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Visitors were greeted by a striking black-and-white speckled terrazzo that extended seamlessly from floor to ceiling, creating a dynamic visual rhythm. This monochromatic palette was punctuated by turquoise glass tiles and laminate surfaces adorned with root wood patterns, offering a rich tapestry of textures and hues. Central to the store's design was a monumental staircase, conceived by architect Shuji Hisada, which served as both a functional element and a sculptural centrepiece, guiding patrons through the multi-level space. The interior was further animated by unexpected features such as a fountain and a dedicated telephone station equipped with the Yellow Pages, inviting visitors to engage not only with a new and novel retail experience but also positioned the store as a cultural landmark in the city.

A bright yellow tiled column contrasts against a textured beige wall, illuminated by soft light under a sloping white ceiling.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A corner of vibrant yellow and blue tiled surfaces against a speckled terrazzo floor, showcasing modern geometric design.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Four framed abstract photographs featuring colorful geometric shapes and textures displayed on a light-colored wall.

Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A modern architectural interior featuring angular shapes, soft lighting, and a sparkling stone surface amidst shadowy tones.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Minimalist bathroom setting featuring a tall blue tiled column against a speckled black wall and floor, exuding modern design elegance.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A gallery interior featuring a series of modern photographs displayed on white walls, with a curved wooden reception desk in view.

Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A modern spiral staircase ascends against a vibrant blue tiled wall, with a sleek black handrail and patterned terrazzo flooring below.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A close-up view of a modern spiral staircase featuring blue tiled walls, a sleek metal railing, and wooden accents in the background.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

However, as the decades passed, the original splendour of Sottsass' design was obscured by successive renovations and changes in tenancy. The once-vibrant interiors were concealed beneath layers of conventional refurbishments, while the building's unique architectural identity seemed destined to fade into obscurity. This trajectory took a fortuitous turn when Wempe, a purveyor of luxury watches and jewellery acquired the property. Recognizing its historical and cultural significance, Wempe entrusted architect Anna Nicolas with the delicate task of peeling back the layers of time to reveal and restore the original design elements.

Nicolas approached this project with the meticulousness of an archaeologist, embarking on a comprehensive exploration of the building's past. Her investigation led her to the archives of the Centro Studi e Archivio della Comunicazione (CSAC) in Parma, where she unearthed the original drawings and plans for the Esprit store. Armed with these invaluable resources, Nicolas commenced the painstaking process of restoration:Iconic terrazzo surfaces, once buried beneath modern flooring, were carefully uncovered and rejuvenated while the grand staircase, a focal point of Hisada's design, was restored to its former glory, resplendent in a pristine white finish accentuating its sculptural form.

Abstract architectural view of curved walls and angles leading to a staircase, highlighted by soft, natural light.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Modern staircase with soft brown carpeting, sleek black railings, and textured terrazzo floors, illuminated by soft recessed lights.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Artwork installation featuring photographs of stairs and two informational banners in pastel colors on a white gallery wall.

Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • A modern staircase with soft carpet, white railings, and a dark wall, illuminated by a bright light, creating a striking contrast.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • A spiral staircase viewed from above, with a dark, textured floor and illuminated steps, creating a striking contrast in tones.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • Abstract dark blue background with irregular white shapes, resembling organic forms or fluid patterns, creating a layered visual effect.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • A gallery wall displays various modern interior photographs, featuring vibrant colors and unique textures, showcasing contemporary design elements.

    Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Modern interior featuring a textured wall, sleek black window frame, and a prominent white air duct overhead. Bright green shelves visible through the window.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A modern office scene featuring geometric furniture in vibrant colors: green shelves, a red curved element, and a patterned rug.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Close-up of a stylish furniture corner featuring a sleek black frame and a warm, textured wooden panel, set against a patterned rug.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A sleek, modern doorway with a minimalist design, featuring smooth, gray surfaces, illuminating edges, and tiled walls.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Contemporary bathroom entrance featuring a pink and patterned sliding door against tiled peach walls and a metallic column.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

In the employee areas, which have been restored to their original functions including offices, restrooms, and a distinctive kitchen, the original wood veneers that Sottsass developed in collaboration with ALPI and Abet Laminati have been revived, while the speckled carpet, emblematic of the era's design sensibilities, has been accurately reproduced based on remnants discovered during the renovation.

Soffiati’s photographs explore the restored interiors with a keen balance of documentary precision and artistic sensibility, capturing the layered dialogue between time and design. In doing so, the exhibition not only highlights the enduring relevance of Sottsass’ visionary work but also invites viewers to reconsider the notion of contemporary archaeology—prompting reflection on how our often overlooked recent history, can be unearthed, reinterpreted, and stunningly preserved within the built environment.

Abstract interior view showcasing angular shapes and soft lighting, creating a modern, minimalistic architectural space.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A modern office space featuring sleek furniture, colorful shelves, and a stylish carpet, viewed through a glass partition.

Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

Gallery hallway displaying various modern artwork pieces on a white wall, leading to a doorway at the end.

Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • A modern bathroom with vibrant turquoise tiles, a sleek sink, yellow lighting, and black soap dispensers, showcasing geometric design elements.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • A vibrant interior corner featuring turquoise tiles, a yellow ceiling panel, and green wall accents with a recessed light.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • Bright turquoise tiled bathroom featuring a white sink, green ceiling, and black paper towel dispensers on the wall.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • Close-up of a bathroom corner showcasing turquoise tiled walls and a wooden shelf holding two rolls of white toilet paper.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

  • Interior space featuring two blue tiled columns and a striped wooden floor, creating a modern and minimalistic aesthetic.

    Photography © Jessica Soffiati.

A wooden table displays two brochures: "New Archeology? Ettore Sottsass Reloaded" and "PASSAGEN Interior Design Days Köln."

Exhibition view, "New archeology? Ettore Sottsass reloaded", Istituto Italiano di Cultura, Cologne. Photography © Jessica Soffiati.