Aerial view of a modern architectural complex with colorful buildings, surrounded by urban landscape, mountains in the background.

Reclaiming the Pyramid of Tirana: MVRDV Transforms Albania’s Most Controversial Monument

Words by Yatzer

Tirana, Albania

There are two ways of dealing with relics reminiscent of tyranny: tear them down, or change them make them something else entirely. Although the latter approach has the advantage of sustainability and adaptive reuse, can it truly reconcile a dark past with hope for the future? The rebirth of the Pyramid of Tirana, once the absurdly lavish shrine to Albania’s longtime dictator Enver Hoxha, triumphantly confirms that it can. MVRDV, the Dutch architects known for their playful, audacious transformations, have turned this brutalist relic of oppression into an effervescent hub for youth, creativity, and—perhaps most symbolically—free thinking.

With steps added to the building’s sloping façades, allowing the people of Albania to literally walk all over it, and a constellation of vibrantly coloured boxes scattered in and around the original structure—housing cafés, studios, offices and classrooms where Albania’s youth can learn various technology subjects for free—the Pyramid of Tirana is no longer a mausoleum to a leader long reviled, but rather a living monument to a nation’s ability to reclaim its past.

A vibrant, modern interior featuring colorful, modular structures and plants under a large circular skylight.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Aerial view of a unique architectural complex featuring a circular main building with colorful rooftop additions and surrounding green spaces.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

From the beginning, the Pyramid was a curious object. Completed in 1988, just a year before the collapse of communism in Albania, it was a hybrid of science fiction and pharaoh worship—part brutalist bunker, part dystopian dreamscape. It was the most expensive building ever commissioned by the communist regime, at a time when most Albanians lived in dire poverty. It was meant to glorify a leader who had banned colour televisions and Coca-Cola, yet its form looked more at home in a Kubrick film than in socialist realism. Ironically Hoxha’s reign of iron was over almost as soon as the Pyramid opened its doors. The dictator’s museum quickly lost its purpose, and in the decades that followed, the structure became a strange, contradictory presence in Tirana’s skyline to later become a radio station, a nightclub, a conference hall, a NATO base during the Kosovo War, and perhaps most importantly, a symbol of uncertainty over what to do with the past.

The answer, it turns out, was hidden in plain sight. Over the years, Tirana’s youth had turned the Pyramid into an impromptu playground. Climbing up its sloping concrete beams and sliding down became a rite of passage, a rebellious re-appropriation of a space that once loomed with oppression. MVRDV’s genius was not in inventing something new, but in amplifying this spirit. The transformation maintains the bones of the structure but makes it porous, vibrant, and alive. The most striking addition? Steps allowing people of all ages to walk up the very surfaces that had once been too treacherous to scale officially.

A bustling staircase with visitors of varying ages ascending and descending against a backdrop of blue skies and fluffy white clouds.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A child in a red jacket walks alone along a series of white, modern staircases with minimalistic railings and angular architecture.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Vibrant multi-colored buildings atop cascading staircases; people stroll along the steps against a scenic sky backdrop.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A modern architectural structure resembling a pyramid, bustling with people, surrounded by greenery and benches on a clear sky evening.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Aerial view of a vibrant urban landscape featuring modern architecture, colorful buildings, and distant mountains at sunset.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

  • A group of people stands on a glass viewing platform on a rooftop, overlooking a cityscape under a colorful sunset sky.

    Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

  • A child peers into a glass floor revealing a lush garden and colorful architecture below, surrounded by curious onlookers.

    Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

View of a round skylight revealing a clear blue sky, framed by structural supports against a textured ceiling.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A vibrant, modern interior featuring colorful, modular structures and plants under a large circular skylight.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Vibrant, multi-level office space with colorful walls, glass windows, and greenery, featuring an open layout and modern design elements.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Scattered in, on, and around the existing structure are brightly hued, box-like volumes, housing everything from cafés and start-up incubators to workshops and classrooms. Many of these spaces belong to TUMO Tirana, a non-profit educational institution offering free courses in software development, robotics, animation, music, and film to 12- to 18-year-olds. In a country where access to such resources has long been limited, the transformation of a dictator’s shrine into a free technology school for the next generation is as poetic as it is pragmatic. The other half of the spaces are open to the public, functioning as rental spaces for businesses, cultural programs, and creative labs. Running the entire colour gamut, the ensemble of multicoloured volumes defies the drab severity of the Pyramid’s past, signalling a new chapter while subtly satirizing Hoxha’s ban on colour television.

  • Colorful modern interior featuring red, blue, and green walls, glass conference room, and casual seating areas with natural light.

    Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

  • A modern co-working space with colorful seating, artwork on display, and natural light, creating a vibrant, collaborative atmosphere.

    Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

For all its exuberance however, MVRDV’s design does not erase the past. The scars remain—cracked marble, exposed beams, and stripped-away cladding serve as a reminder of the building’s origins. This delicate balance between preservation and reinvention is what makes the Pyramid’s rebirth so compelling. Neither a sanitized heritage project nor an act of demolition, it is an architectural act of resilience.

A modern, green meeting room suspended in a spacious, light-filled building, showcasing sleek chairs and computer workstations inside.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

View of a colorful, modern atrium with tilted geometric structures, skylights, and vibrant walls against a sunlit ceiling.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A glass circular floor reveals a vibrant, multi-colored interior garden with plants in purple, blue, and green surroundings.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

  • Aerial view of a modern architectural complex with colorful buildings, surrounded by urban landscape, mountains in the background.

    Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

  • People walk and relax on wide, modern concrete steps under a blue sky, with some sitting and others descending or ascending the stairs.

    Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A group of people at a viewpoint, enjoying a colorful sunset over a cityscape with modern buildings in the background.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Beyond its symbolic weight, the project also speaks to a larger global conversation about sustainability, demonstrating that historic brutalist buildings—so often dismissed as obsolete—are in fact ripe for reinvention. Rather than razing the Pyramid and starting anew, MVRDV has embraced circular economy principles, adapting the robust concrete shell to modern needs while minimizing waste. The interior remains largely open, reducing energy consumption by climate-controlling only the added structures.

The Pyramid joins a growing list of contemporary interventions under construction reshaping the city’s skyline, including MVRDV’s Downtown One, a striking mixed-use tower with a pixelated façade, a ‘vertical forest tower’ by Italian architect Stefano Boeri, and two conjoined skyscrapers by Portuguese studio OODA. Bold in design and ambitious in concept, these projects firmly signal Tirana’s ongoing urban renaissance just as much as the country’s evolving identity.

Aerial view of a unique architectural complex featuring a circular main building with colorful rooftop additions and surrounding green spaces.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A modern, white architectural building with layered terraces is surrounded by greenery, with people enjoying the evening atmosphere.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A modern architectural structure with illuminated, zigzagging stairs, bustling with people against a vibrant urban backdrop at night.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

Modern architectural building with sloped white structure, illuminated edges, and visitors enjoying the view against a twilight sky.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.

A modern staircase brightly illuminated at dusk, with people climbing, walking, and children sliding down its smooth surface.

Photography © Ossip van Duivenbode.